Spring Cleaning in the Garden

7. March 2010 by admin.

Spring Cleaning

This week is hanging in the fifties, fine weather for moving the agenda of spring forward. Early bulbs are coming out, and forsythia is getting ready to burst forth once again. This is the ideal time to transplant  that tree or shrub that has gotten too big for its britches or that specimen plant that somehow got buried over the years.

Like many folks who are less planned about the development of their gardens than perhaps they should be, my garden is a collection of plants that have arrived in layers of inspiration. When I first worked this garden, I spent a lot of time opening it up and adding in the occasional weeping white pine or white Birch as accents. A layer of perennials  introduced by my wife Katherine were planted, and a year or two later, the next layer of rose, spirea, and some  barberry GASP -which has made it to the invasive species list. Of course the weeping white pine is now hiding in the back where no one can see it, there are perennials hiding behind shrubs, and shrubs that are edging out more perennials with their formidable development.

In some gardens, this sort of insane layering where smaller plants end up behind larger plants happens all at once due to folks hiring landscapers who have limited knowledge of plant development. This can be easily remedied of course by hiring companies that have a strong background in landscape, or garden design, and horticulture. 

In other cases,  it’s a matter of plans changing over the years, or maybe too many gardeners in one garden,  and the garden taking a new direction, again and again(and again). Regardless of the cause, inevitably many gardens end up with poor layering, and plants playing peek-a-boo out from under massively over grown shrubs.

Fortunately, spring is a terrific time to transplant just about anything and though I would love to tell you the best thing to do is make a plan of where everything will go and have at it, much like re-arranging furniture, it’s a more intuitive process then that. Yes, if you have some key pieces you want to show off, (like a weeping white pine for example), you will want to identify a focal point in the garden for that plant, but for many shrubs and perennials it really is a combination of their needs in terms of light, water, and soil, and where they will look best when layered properly. Some plants may need to go entirely. You have to have guts, Give it away, Use it, Throw it away, Sell it.

Pre- planning involves first identifying plants you want to show off, specimens, or plants that have colors you want to “punch”. Where will they go? What are the focal points, or areas that are seen from key garden entry, windows, and/or seen from multiple locations? Also, what will the proper sequence of plants be in terms of layering or height order? What textures do you want to combine or set off? For example, large leaf plants with fine leaf plants, or blue foliage plants near burgundy leafed ones. What is the bloom order and how do you want to group the plants by bloom time if this is an issue? Last of all, what’s left over and how will you use these plants. These are usually filler plants sort of like angel’s breath in a rose flower arrangement. Pre planning can be fairly loose, and you are allowed to change your mind as you go through the process.

Next, the fun part, dig it all up carefully preserving the root balls. You can leave the root balls loose if  you won’t  be moving them to many times . I like to lay all the plants on a tarp so I can see them separately from the landscape and so that I done trash the lawn in the process. Spend some time placing the plants like you would furniture. Honestly I will do a lot of my “pre” planning while I’m actually digging plants up since this is a time consuming process, and I can reminisce on what the material did last year while I dig. If your soil is not so good, this might be a  good time to mix some cow manure or composted material you have been making( since you are a dedicated reader and do everything suggested in these writings) .

Once you have an idea of where your plants are going, plant away and be sure to take this opportunity to prune back material as disturbing the roots will force the plants to re-focus their energies more on root development this spring. If you want to learn more about soil culture, composting and compost tea, there will be a “Tea Party”   at the Pelham Art Center on March 14^th sponsored by Greener by Design promoting education in this area. Call 914 637 9870 if you are interested in attending. Leslie of Lola’s Tea House will also do a presentation on teas and be serving some sample tea’s there.

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Garden Idea Books & Designers

22. February 2010 by admin.

Thinking Spring: Create a garden Idea Book

Though there is still snow on the ground and February has yet to pass as I write this, spring is around the corner. Yes there is a light at the end of the tunnel! Now is the time to consider how you want to use your outdoor space and what you would like to see there.

Success in conceptualizing gardens -and just about anything- is based on trying to visualize the elements that will become the building blocks of design. In my professional experience, there are a couple of varieties of clients for example, those that want to be wowed with minimal input, and those who collaborate in the design process. The ones who want to be “wowed” usually have some idea of what they like, but want a designer to guess, while the collaborators have some ideas but don’t know how to work them into their space.

Inevitably, the collaborators are happier with the finished product in the long run. They go through magazines and web sites looking for what they find exciting and stimulating, they are actively involved in the design process, while the other type of client takes very short lived pleasure in the final outcome of their garden because they tend to be less personally invested.

This is the time to start dreaming. First, how would you like to use your outdoor space? What room or rooms will it be? What do you need to do to make it more effective? What textures and color palettes would you like to draw form? How can you create this look and most benefit the local ecology? The last question in some ways is the most important since the health of your garden is very much dependent on beneficial insects and wildlife that interact with it. If you choose to get the help of a garden designer, their role will be to take the ideas you have assembled, let you know which will work with the architecture of your home, where they can be used successfully, and which plants will best marry your dreams, and thrive in your area.

Dreaming costs you nothing. We are all concerned about what 2010 is going to look like, especially since we are getting such mixed signals from the “experts”. Start collecting ideas for your outdoor space by collecting pictures and putting them in an idea file. Once you feel you have the right group of ideas, you can implement them in stages as you feel you can afford them. Don’t let concerns about the future dampen your enthusiasm for a garden of your dreams, just temper the speed with which you reach for it with whatever your economic reality is today.

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Indoor Herbs

7. February 2010 by admin.

The Toughest Herbs:

If you have been following along for the last few weeks, perhaps you just cant wait for spring. Many herbs are suitable not only for starting indoors, but for growing indoors. No fancy hydroponics are needed, just a window with fairly good light.

The following is a list of herbs that are relatively happy indoors:

Basil Oregano Mint Parsley Rosemary

Sage Thyme Angelica Chamomile

Dill Fennel Lavender Geranium Chives

Planting herb pots can be great fun with the kids. Buy some small clay pots, and let them paint them before you plant them. You will want to get some acrylic paint or some kind of paint not affected by water. Maybe even some colored sharpies if that is easier. Make sure you supervise this closely as acrylics (and sharpies) can be hard to remove.

Proper seed and/or plant selection  is key to successful plant development. Try www.burpee.com/herbs or www.parkseeds.com. Both are very reliable suppliers, or if you really want to simplify things, you can order a seed kit from amazon.com, or a whole soiless herb seed starter kit pots and all

Chia Herbs on Amazon                                                                            Herb assortment from Amazon

Once the pots are decorated and planted, Find a sunny spot to grow your indoor herb garden. Ideally, it should be south facing, but if this isn’t possible try a spot that gets strong morning or afternoon light. That would be any window but North that is not shaded. Regular watering is important, but not too much. Most indoor plants die form over watering. Once a week should be sufficient. Make sure you feel the soil first before you water.

You can also go to the Greener by Design fan page on Facebook for more info on herbs.

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Herbs for Inside

30. January 2010 by admin.

Starting Herbs at Home

Last week we looked at window planters for herbs, now let’s talk about getting your herbs started. Yes it’s January, and there is no way we will be starting these outside. Most of us have been led to believe that in order to start herb seeds, you need fancy equipment and lots of time. While it’s true that when growing plants from seed professionally, having lights, multiple flats with cells, special soils and maybe even warming pads work wonders, the truth is that before commercial sprouting of seeds, folks started their own seeds in their homes for hundreds, perhaps thousands of years and we can too.

Get the pot or planter you selected (because you read last week’s blurb on planters and went out and bought some that will fit on your window) and put some stones in the bottom for drainage, put a little fabric over the stones, and add some moistened commercial seed starting mix-ha ha small joke, not so easy to get that. Make your own by mixing 50% peat moss with 50% potting mix and fill your pots/planters with this stopping one half inch to one inch from the top of the pot.

Next, sprinkle your seeds lightly over the soil. For a 4”- 6” pot, you can sprinkle 3-6 seeds just to give you an idea of distribution. If you use less you run the risk of failed germination, more will give you a whole lot of sprouts, which is the lesser of two evils really. Cover the seeds with maybe an eighth of an inch of soil mix. Press the mix down with your fingers, and gently water or even spritz with water (you don’t want to drown the soil and have the seeds float to the top).

Take some saran wrap or similar product and cover the pot over. Seal it by putting a rubber band around the pot to hold the plastic wrap down. Next, set the containers in a sink filled with 2 inches of water until beads of moisture appear on the soil surface or until you are sure the soil is good and soaked. If a self watering pot, fill the well to capacity. Put the pot in a saucer if you did not get a self watering pot, and water the plant daily by filling the saucer with water or less often if there is still water in the saucer the next day. Seeds need moisture to germinate!.

Make sure you have the pot in a nice south facing window, or at least one that gets a few hours of sunlight a day, as the seeds sprout, they will look for light and you will want to cut back on the water somewhat. Probably you will want to water half as often, but this really is determined by how fast the soil dries, more soil can wait longer, less will need more frequent watering. When the seedlings touch the plastic, remove it. When the seedlings reach 2 inches tall, thin those started in small pots to one seedling per pot, or one seedling for every 2”-3” if a larger pot, by snipping off all but the strongest-looking seedlings.

For more on herbs and related links, follow our fan page on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/home.php#/pages/New-Rochelle-NY/Greener-by-Design/150120836420?ref=nf

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Pots & Planters for Indoor Herbs

25. January 2010 by admin.

Growing Herb Indoors: Pot Selection

Picking up where we left of last week, its 54 degrees today as I write this column. However, by the time you read it, it will be closer to 36 and any hopes of gardening this week will be dashed on the jagged rocks of winter despair.  A centuries old practice that sees an increasing revival as people epicurean adventures expand, and pocket books remain watched, it growing herbs indoors.

Growing herbs indoors will add a little green to your home and fresh herbs that you can harvest in a pinch. These can be grown in any sunny window, but most folks prefer the kitchen for ease of access.  Some say the sky is the limit when choosing containers for your herb garden but certainly not if it’s going to  be your window sill. Other limits are pots that are food safe. Some glossy colored pots may not be food safe as they may contain lead based coloring. Of course you can use plastic pots, or terracotta is excellent as it breathes.

We have a couple of 4” x 8”  wide terracotta rectangular planters that fit perfectly on the window sill over the sink and when in use have housed beans and grass sprouted by our industrious little herd. The problem with ours is drainage, they don’t have proper saucers, but the window box format allows more soil for rooting as opposed to individual round pots which though sweet, do dry out faster and can limit plant development. There are some great lines of self watering fiberglass planters on the market that can be ordered in custom lengths available through Brookstone (www.brookstone.com) and Flower Window Boxes (www.flowerwindowboxes.com).

Of course if you forgo the window sill experience and  have a nice large bay window you can put some full sized pots in, your yields will be much higher and there will be a lot more room for variety. We will be posting more information on herb gardening on our facebook fan page. Search Greener by Design and on facebook and become a fan for ongoing updates on this topic. In fact there is an interesting link to a video on hydroponic window gardening made easy up there from last week.

 

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Dreams of Spring: Vegetable Garden

19. January 2010 by admin.

Veggies and Small Spaces

 

It’s particularly warm this week which generally inspires a little spring dreaming. Of course we will be back to ice and snow soon enough, it is only January after all, but in the mean time, let’s roll with it a little. I have wanted a vegetable garden forever. Ai remember one year in Brooklyn, growing tomatoes on my roof. I neglected them somewhat but at the end of the summer I had some amazing tasting tomatoes and of course more than I could eat all at once. Being a single guy, I made tomato sauce and it was incredible! Of course it would have been better if I had peeled the tomatoes first, live and learn.

So I have been researching small vegetable gardens and came across an article on the gardener’s supply website : www.gardeners.com. The whole article is a clever ad with links to gardener’s supply products throughout, but fortunately it’s a great little piece and deals with issues we in the ‘burbs come across all the time.

First is the vertical issue, many of us have small spaces, due to the size of our property, or just difficulty in finding un-shaded space. One tool for growing veggies more vertical is a product they call the “vegetable ladder” this also doubles as the tomato ladder by the way, a three post triangular upright with cross pieces that support foliage and veggies that is really quite simple and clever.

They also note that sub-urban and even urban gardens can be shared with locals like raccoons, skunks, and bunnies and recommend fencing them in. Really aggressive bunnies need buried fencing, but friends who grow veggies in Pelham tell me we don’t have any that hungry…yet. Another recommendation is some kind of weed barrier to reduce weeding, always an excellent recommendation. These can be U-pinned to the soil and mulched over to help hold the mmat down and reduce evaporation.

Studies show that raised beds are more conducive to vegetable production as they tend to be warmer, better aerated, and provide better drainage as well. So if you’re interested in a small plot, even 8’ x 8’, you will want to pick a relatively sunny spot that you can tend regularly. For more information on vegetable gardening, go to the greener by design fan page on facebook. We will be posting links to videos and articles for the next week or two. Just put “greener by design” in your facebook search box and it should come up.

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All Them Holiday Lights!

13. December 2009 by admin.

Sustainable Holidays

The Holidays challenge the growing eco-friendly consciousness of our society. It is very hard to drive at night without loving the holiday lights so many homes sport and at the same time, one must wonder how much more carbon is being released into the atmosphere, how much more pollution, and how diminishing resources are effected by our current practices of firing up our communities every holiday season..

This column would never suggest to NOT celebrating. At the same time, in a society that is based primarily on non-replenish able energy sources whose usage degrades the environment it is hard to justify all the disposable sets of lights we use and the amount of time they are left on. Incidentally, the same argument carries over to landscape lighting and in all honestly I have balked at adding landscape lighting to my home for exactly the same reason.

Until we complete the conversion from a petro chemically based society to one  that relies on solar, wind, methane, and whatever clever new ways of harvesting clean energy emerge, we are all compelled to use less and use it wisely and so  compromise is to live by the “less is more” philosophy. If you already have your lights, buy a timer for them. Don’t let them run all night, instead set them to prime viewing hours, well after dark, and off before midnight or earlier. There are a huge variety of timers out there and they will increase the longevity of bulbs,  and save you money on electricity.

Considering limiting your displays on time to very short or no hours on weekdays, when folks are wrapped up in their day to day experience, and longer hours on the weekends, when more holiday visiting and travel occurs. Limit the number of lights you use. This is the antithesis of the “do your house up to beat the Jones’” philosophy. Only have lights in key areas that are the focal point of yourself and neighbors. Use LCD lights. Incidentally the LCD approach is a great landscape lighting compromise as well. LCD strands cost more up front, but use significantly less electricity than traditional strands and last more than ten times as long. Higher end LCD displays change color, and can be programmed with music.

Install your displays a little later, resist decorating after Halloween or even the day after Thanksgiving, and take it down early. This is the come late leave early approach to going to parties you ambivalent about applied to displays.  Finally, there is the no lights approach. Honestly my family is extremely resistant to this one and it is almost an impossible sell. You might pull it off with heavy use of natural (mulchable) greens and maybe  using candles in some way shape or form, but candles will require some real creativity to make it work without setting the neighborhood on fire.

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Gardening in December

29. November 2009 by admin.

December Gardening

You can still plant in December. Plants are going dormant and they don’t mind being planted in this phase. Transplanting is also permitted, though I would avoid moving larger plant material, particularly evergreens. As long as the ground is not frozen, plants can be tucked into it for the winter. You can still plant bulbs for that matter, and they are on sale now that it is the end of the season.

Avoid pruning at this stage in the game if possible. Cutting plants while they are going dormant gives them a mixed signal since pruning stimulates growth, while trees and shrubs are in the process of slowing down. Perennials on the other hand may be cut back to the ground , and hydrangeas and grasses may also be cut back if that is your desire.

“Wilt pruf” your evergreens if possible. Wilt pruf is the brand name of a particular anti-desiccant.  Evergreens stop absorbing moisture as they shut down, however, they continue to lose moisture to the wind throughout the winter. If you have particularly exposed evergreens, or specimen plants you would like to protect, this is the ideal time to spray them (while temperatures are above forty degrees Fahrenheit).

Take the last of your leaves and start a leaf compost pile in an unused corner. Leaf compost is very high in beneficial fungal content and once composted  can be spread around trees and shrubs, or can be used to make compost tea with in the spring, both excellent ways to increase beneficial microbial and fungal activity in your soil.

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Ways to Compost

22. November 2009 by admin.

Composting Revisited

About a year ago, I started composting only after recommending this technique through this column for at least a year prior to that. Why did it take so long?  The answer is, unlike most of humanity, I don’t do change so well. However, I am finding that if I keep positive change on the forefront of my consciousness, it can be executed incrementally thus the adventure in composting began.

We have a stacked composter. Compost needs to be turned regularly to stay viable, some folks like rolling barrels, I like to see what’s going on so I purchased a series of six inch high square, interlocking wall units. When stacked up, my composter reaches a height of about thirty inches, and I can move the composter by un-stacking it, restacking it next to my compost pile, and shoveling the compost into the newly stacked square unit thus turning the whole pile over, or more important, separating partially composted material from fully composted material (on the bottom). The fully composted material is dark, rich, soil like material, ready for distribution in the garden or use in compost tea, while the partially composted material is, well, just plain nasty if you’re not into this sort of thing.

So here’s the rub, after a year of composting household greens, there is not much compost to show for it. Granted, I have made regular withdrawals of composted material for brewing compost tea, but being an American, I want more! Many clients of my clients have been composting their leaves and missing the important turning the pile part of the composting process. They end up with stacks of dry, un-composted yard waste. Additionally, whole leaves are slow to compost. And require a good deal of space before they reduce to a manageable size. However, shredding the leaves with a lawnmower, or a mulcher will reduce the size of the leaves by ten to one.

Leaves added to a home composter like mine that is being used for kitchen green waste composting will break down much faster if shredded first, and when mixed with the existing green waste compost, will provide a much richer composted product than either kitchen waste of yard waste will on their own. A recent NY Times article on composting indicated that leaf compost is much higher in beneficial fungal content that helps roots absorb nutrients, while kitchen greens composting is much higher in nutrients particularly nitrogen. Composting the two together can yield an especially effective product if done in a balanced way.

There are way too many leaves on most of our properties to compost in this manner and we still contend that most leaves can be mulched into your lawn, or mulched and used as shrub and perennial topdressing, saving money in organic material down the line, not to mention breaking the insane energy wasting process of hauling leaves away for composting for re-distribution. If you are already composting, look at mixing it up. If you’re not composting yet, start this fall. It will pay for itself in a healthier garden and you will be doing your part to start to create a culture that knows no waste.

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Green Uses of Sickly Trees

9. November 2009 by admin.

Recycling Cut Trees

A reader recently wrote:

Hello,

I enjoy reading Richard’s articles in The Pelham Weekly.  They are one of my favorite things about the paper and I’ve saved quite a few of the articles over the years.

 I have a question about what I can do ‘green-wise’ with the remnants of a very large oak tree.  We tried to save it but it couldn’t be saved so it will be taken down this week.  I’ve thought about perhaps keeping some slices for a bench and/or a table and some pieces for firewood.  I suppose the tree removal company will chip a lot of it up.  Do you have any other suggestions?

 Thanks for reading this, and I look forward to reading more of your articles in The Pelham Weekly.

Regards,

Katy Mayer

 

Dear Katy and Readers,

I took down an oak that had died in my back yard a few years ago and kept  about ten feet of trunk  intact, still rooted to the ground thinking I was going to do something green and creative with the trunk. I thought maybe I would shape it into a giant fist (to show my irreverence, or maybe release my inner panther). Then I thought maybe I would carve a totem to honor the first settlers in the land. Finally, I settled on a giant chair, or maybe it was a throne, the seat of the “Baron of Benedict place”. I got out my collection of chainsaws. I lasted about an hour and had barely made a dent in the old hardened wood. 

In the end, I cut the stump into smaller pieces and I’m finally using them as steps in a play area I built for my daughter (out of properly milled wood). Moral of the story is, leave chainsaw carving to folks who really know it. Attached are pictures of odd an beautiful things that can be made with tree trunks and stumps. Perhaps the tree company can help you craft them! If not, wood form old trees does generally get composted, and/or turned into firewood by these companies. Waste disposal is just too high in our area to do otherwise which is a good thing. Please make sure you plant a new tree for the one your taking down. Our tree canopy in Pelham is precious and the source of a good deal of our higher property values, as well as the basis of a stronger, more layered ecosystem, and help keep save energy by keeping our homes cooler in the summer.

 

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